Patrol 2

Today we did a joint patrol with MOT E to the area of Baghlan-e Jadid. We visited Ta-i-Khunak and two other villages. Our team was reinforced by the Swedish TPT (tactical psyops team), but we were only a small part of the patrol: it was led by NDS (national directorate of security), and consisted of troops from both ANP (Afghan national police) and ANA (Afghan national army). The trip to Ta-i-Khunak takes about 3 hours, and 3 more to get back, so we left early. The distance is only about 70 to 80 km, but the road is slow, and at some points there is no road at all. The road climbs to about 1700 metres above sea level from Aybak, which is at 1000 metres altitude, and then descends steeply down again into the village. The weather was warm and fine at first, but later in the afternoon there were some showers, which made the roads muddy and slippery. At dusk the wind was freezing. On the way back one ANA vehicle broke down and had to be towed. Another drove into the ditch and we winched it up. Enough said, pictures speak louder than words.




Soviet steel. View from the back yard of the ANA garrison, where we started our joint patrol.


At 2650 metres above sea level.


Pistachios.


Ta-i-Khunak village, with Bay Saqal village in the background.


There wasn't much to eat.


The patrol commander and our team leader.


ANA soldiers having their lunch break. Naan, lamb meat, red onion and chai.


Oops.


View over Manqutan village.

CO

Today was my first day as the CO (commanding officer) at Provincial Office Aybak. Well, officially I was appointed yesterday, but as I was away to CNL, it doesn't really count. And, if should we be really, really official, the appointment has yet to be approved by Army HQ in Finland. In practise, my promotion didn't change much. I picked up where the CO left things, just like I've already done on the three occasions when he's been on leave. I went to the OCCP with MOT E, did a lot of administrative work, did the evening brief and the Suomi-brief, did some more administration, and went to bed.

(I have taken a lot of pictures recently, but haven't had time to post them on the blog, because uploading just one picture can take minutes with our sluggish internet connection. I will add some pictures later.)

Buzkashi

In the morning, the ground was frozen and the footpaths in CNL were icy. I chose not to go running, but instead I spent 40 minutes on the crosstrainer. After breakfast MOT X's second in command said that they were going to go out to have a look at a game of Buzkashi and asked if I wanted to come along. Of course I wouldn't miss a chance to experience something - or anything - after 3 full days of boredom in the camp. Unfortunately, when we came to the playing field the people there told us that the game wouldn't begin until one o'clock. After lunch it was time for the Suomi-brief, but then we set off again with MOT X, and this time we were joined by 4 more Finns who were interested in a little military tourism.

The game was a complete chaos. In a field were about 200 riders on horses, and the field was surrounded by at least 3000 people and about a hundred cars. Somewhere in the middle there was the black, headless body of a sheep, which the riders tried to grab hold of. Sometimes the riders would gallop out of the playing field and though the audience, and then back to the field from a different direction. The sheep was most of the time surrounded by a thick wall of horses and men. Every now and then a horse would rise up on its hind legs and its front hooves would land on another horse and rider. It looked very violent and dangerous. There were children selling food and sweets, and also some armed policemen and army troops present.

Quite unexpectedly an opportunity to get back to Aybak presented itself, when the Finnish soldiers who were returining from leave suddenly appeared in camp Marmal. They were almost three days behind schedule, but everyone had expected them to be even more delayed, so their arrival was a nice surprise. Without wasting another minute, they came to CNL to collect me, and we drove to Aybak, arriving a few minutes past 2100.


The playing field with cars all around. Notice the amusement park in the distance.


A player with his horse. Buzkashi horses can be very expensive: the best horses are sold for up to 50.000 dollars.

Snow!

This morning the ground in CNL was covered with a thin layer of wet snow. Yesterday I went to bead early, so I didn't get to see the snowfall, which I heard began around midnight. It made my morning run quite cold, and even a bit slippery at times. I spent my day at the commander's conference, which lasted until 1930. All that remains now, is to find and catch the first available transport back to Aybak.


The fireplace hut of the Finnhouse at CNL with a thin cover of snow.

Rain!

It rained the whole day. Not very hard, but there was a constant drizzle, which made the air breathable for once. Appropriately for a rainy day, I did nothing. At 0600, I got up and ran 5 laps around the camp (CNL, not the PO compound) and got wet. During the day I prepared my notes for the commander's conference,l watched a movie and a half, said goodbye to a couple of colleagues who are rotating home, and had breakfast, lunch and dinner. And enjoyed the chilly winter rain, and the cool, damp air.

Travelling Man

I'm back in CNL. This time I got to spend two nights at the PO before having to head someplace else again. The reason for leaving home base once more came in yesterday late in the afternoon: Commander's conference is coming up, and the next (and only) suitable transport was today. It was fun to be driving for a change - in fact it was my first time as a driver in Afghanistan. We took a shortcut to Camp Marmal, and the Desert Road to CNL. The CO borrowed 1000 euros from me to buy some carpets at the container shops at CNL, as it was his last opportunity to do so. When I saw the commanding officer of the Finnish contingent, I found out that a new team of four Finnish soldiers is going to be deployed at PO Aybak. I called the PO and told them to start planning how we will be able to accommodate them.

Good Times, Bad Times

I quite like my job here. It can be very demanding, but also very rewarding. Such a moment was today at the OCCP, when I went there for the first time in about three weeks. The representatives came to shake my hand saying Khub Bakhair, and ask me how I was, how my family is, etc. Like you do in Afghanistan. But that was not the rewarding part. It came after the meeting, in which we had agreed upon something. The commander of OCCP was very happy for our support and told jokes. (He also wanted some painkillers for his bad leg from MOT D's medic, but that's beside the point.) But that was not rewarding either, though the commander is rarely happy about anything. In fact, I don't know what made me feel good. It must have been a combination of many small details that, when I got into our vehicle to leave, made me feel like having achieved something, through hard work, against the odds.

After OCCP the logistic transport came in, with yet another new boiler for the guards' house, and an electrician to repair a few items that were out of order. Then there was the new chairman of the IEC (independent election committee), who wanted to meet us - and to get a shelter built for their generator. Well, I suppose they can concentrate on things like that now that the parliment elections have been postponed from May to September. Then I actually got a chance to go to the gym, which was also rewarding, once I was done. There was roast duck with orange sauce for dinner, because it was the CO's last day here. I bought him an elder's coat as a going-away present, the kind that president Karzai always wears. After the briefing I had a short presentation about the neighbouring PRT that I visited recently.

The hardest part of working here must for me be that I have to be available 24/7. I can never be sure that no-one is going to want something from me at any given time. There aren't many opportunities to be alone, either, and I try to make good use of those opportunities for solitude that present themselves. One thing that also bothers me every now and then, is that it's never quiet here. It's always, and I do mean constantly, more or less noisy. I suppose that it could be more quiet in the mountains, but then I don't get to go there too often.

Footpaths

Today was a long and very busy day. I got up at 0550. Then I started doing things, and did not stop doing things until the next day at 0020 hrs. I paid overtime salaries to guards, had "fika på taket", settled arguments between interpreters over when to have their leave days, was duty officer, had discussions with PO staff members about their personal performance during the rotation, wrote letters of recommendation, and petted Isaf the dog, and watched two videos made by MOT E, amongst other things.

I also started a project at the neighbouring mosque: We are paying a local contractor 12oo USD for building concrete footpaths in the garden of the mosque, so that the locals who come to pray won't get their feet dirty when it's raining. It should buy us some goodwill from the local mullahs at least a few months ahead. I'm certain that the younger mullah and his senior colleague knew what they were doing when they came to complain to us with ridiculous claims. Then they made sure that their point would not be missed by inviting guest preachers with an anti-ISAF message two Friday's in a row, which of course made us a little worried. And now a constructor is building new footpaths to their mosque with Finnish taxpayers' money. Political Islam is revolting.

Another project, the wall to a girls' school in Langar village in Khoram Sa Var Bagh district, was finished today, as J from G9 went there to deliver the final payment, escorted by MOT D. Even that project was not saved from the rampant corruption that is everywhere you turn your head here, but I won't go into details. I did not have time to go to the gym today, although I really would have wanted to. Late in the evening an MMT came in to reinforce us, because MOT D left for Sweden to have their leave.

Viagra

Today I finally got a transport back to Aybak. MOT D had ended their operation a little earlier than expected, so they got to act as a convoy. This time I did not have to climb into the uncomfortable rear seat of an RG-32, because J from G9 CIMIC (civil-military co-operation) joined us, and he was able to borrow a Mercedes from FIN NSE. It was indeed much more pleasant to travel in an air-conditioned Mercedes originally designed for civilian use, listening to the CD-player, instead of having to listen to mechanical noise of a true fighting vehicle, with the air-conditioning coming from the roof gunner's hatch. I must be getting old.

The first thing that struck me in Aybak is that our senior chef A was acting even more strange today that he has been doing recently. He was again sneaking around with his soft air gun with the Pineapple Team (The Gustavsson brothers - "No eggs today") trying to shoot our guest in the back. Every day there are increasingly strange messages on the dining hall notice board, and today in the welfare room one of the Gustavssons had hung himself on the wall, wearing a cook's outfit. Don't ask - I don't know. As long as everyone seems to thinks it's fun I suppose it's no harm.

MOT D also do their share in keeping a smile on everyone's face. Their second driver L keeps talking almost non-stop in a "free association" -kind of way, and the signalist P can fill in any gaps as long as it's about movies. Their medic B, who is from Dalarna, has also begun to show a new side to himself recently, almost challenging L's position as the "porn king" of MOT D. Today they told us about a practical joke that the guys in JTAC (joint tactical air command) had done to one of their colleagues: They had put some Viagra in his coffee without him noticing. The rumours about what followed have now spread far and wide. I won't go into any details, but no-one was hurt.


The passenger seat of an RG-32. Yes, there is a seat under all that gear.

Warm Winter Day

There still wasn't any kind of transport to Aybak from CNL available, so today's main task was to do fill in the personnel evaluation forms for those PO staff members, who are rotating home. Actually, I filled in the forms also for those who stay but continue in a different position. This is to help their next commander to make their final evaluations. Once I had done those it was time for lunch, after which was the Suomi-brief. Then I talked for a while with staff officers from G2 (intelligence) and G3 (operations). In the afternoon I put on my CBA (combat body armour) and walked around the camp for two hours - that's 30 minutes more than yesterday. The track around the camp has been measured to be 1011 metres long, and one lap took eight to ten minutes. At some point I lost count of the laps, but in two hours I managed to do ten or more. Or at least that's what my feet felt like. The whole day was exceptionally warm for this time of year, almost 18 degrees in the afternoon.


A woman was exercising on the track around the camp with "the Beast": a car tire on the end of a rope.

Today the Finnish parliament made the decision to send more troops to Afghanistan. That's all very fine, but the way the recruiting of career officers is going, especially to the higher level tasks, it might be necessary to improve the salaries once again, or to find some other means of getting people to apply.

Nice Surprise

After breakfast I went to see the Swedish paymaster and replenished the PO cash. It's always a relief when the receipts and advances add up to the required sum and nothing is missing. From the post-office I went to see the G2 Samangan desk. I shared with him the information that I had gotten from PRT PEK, and he gave me an update on the latest developments in Samangan province. Then I went to see the Swedish DEVAD (development adviser), who told me about their plans for the future concerning my AOR (area of responsibility), that is Samangan province. After lunch I did some shopping at the container shops and collected my fleece shirt from the tailor's, where patches of velcro for insignia had been sewn on.

I tried to take a nap, but was disturbed by a text message from Aybak, which told me to go to get a document from FIN NSE S1 office. When I got there I received the paper that I had come for, but was also told that I had been appointed to the position of commanding officer of PO Aybak as of 29. January. This means more responsibility, a minor pay raise and perhaps also a change in rank of service, although I'm not certain about the last point. It was a certainly a surprise, although there had been indications about what might happen as early as mid-December. Of course, this turn of events is largely due to the CO's sudden desicion to resign, and that a suitable replacement could not be found at such short notice. But the fact that I got the position must also mean that I have something right during my time here.

Money Run

As yesterday, I started my day by pedalling on the spinning bike for 30 minutes. Then it was time for my most common breakfast: oatmeal porridge with cloudberry jam, a tomato and cheese sandwich, one boiled egg with Kalle's, and orange juice. The PO's contant cash was once again looking quite empty, so it was time for me to take a trip to CNL to see the Swedish paymaster. As usual, there soon turned out to be many, many more items on my agenda. Of course, it's always better to handle matters in direct contact with the persons responsible instead of over e-mail or telephone. I hitched a ride to CNL with MOT D, who were going there on other business. On the way we stopped at Camp Mira, where I got back my money that I had used on the pocket knives. They gave three heat elements for the sauna stove to bring back to Aybak. Upon arrival at CNL, I had lunch and then started walking around the camp, looking into different offices and trying to find the people that I needed to meet. It didn't go quite as smoothly as expected, because the Swedish contingent were in the middle of a leave transport and people were coming and going. I managed to do most of the things that I came to do, however, and could soon withdraw to my tent accommodation for some well-deserved rest.


The hygiene container outside my accommodation tent seems to have once belonged to HMS Loke.

Pocket knives and T-shirts

I got up at 0620 and went to the gym to pedal on the spinning bike for 40 minutes. After breakfast I gave the EUPOL officer S, who was going to the OCCP, some money to collect the souvenir pocket knives that we had ordered from the local blacksmith. He brought them back, but without having succeeded in negotiating a lower price, although he said that he had tried really hard. Then the landlord came to the gate and wanted to talk with us, about money, of course. For lunch we had guests: the commanders of ANP and NDS from all the seven districts of Samangan, as well as the provincial commanders, were invited for lunch. We provided food and some diesel for their vehicles, and in that way helped them to organise their own conference with their own agenda. They liked the food (chicken soup, tuna salad and knäckebröd) and gladly accepted the extra fuel, so in that respect the gathering was a success. Our MOT leaders even managed to talk to some of their contacts although we just had two interpreters present.

In the afternoon I sold some of the pocket knives to those who had ordered them, and even bought some myself. I also bought myself an Aybak t-shirt, which the guys had ordered from the store in the German camp Marmal. I continued doing piled-up administrative work, such as counting the cash and mailing the diesel lists etc. Then there was yet another surprise visitor at the gate: two men from the local radio station, asking for - yes, you guessed it - money. No surprise there. They just keep coming, although we rarely have anything more than excuses to offer.


The blacksmith has done a good job - but everyone says that we paid too much.


The embroidery on the backside of the t-shirt is of really good quality.


The opening words of Samangan's ANP and NDS commanders' lunch at the PO.

Return to Aybak

After the morning brief I tried to use the computers in the internet room, but they were all occupied, just like on the previous evening. I phoned the PO and asked when they were going to come and pick me up. They said that they would let me know. In the TOC they told me that some American special forces had been fighting with insurgents outside the city last night. Close air support had been called in. I remember hearing the planes when I went to bed. Nothing special was happening anymore, so I went to pack my bags and to have a nap. At noon the phone rang: the transport would leave immediatelly and would arrive in about an hour. I had lunch, got my personal equipment and informed the staff that I was about to leave. MOT's E and D arrived as planned, and we took a walk around the camp before we left for Aybak.

The ring road north-west from Pol-e Khumri climbs up to 1400 metres before descending to 990 metres in Aybak. We reached the level of the clouds and drove in the mist. In Aybak it rained a little but was still surprisingly warm, up to 17 degrees in the middle of the day. The commander of the Finnish contingent with his CPT were at the PO. They left and I began clearing my desk of all the administrative and other business that had accumulated there during almost three weeks. At our briefing the CO told us to everyone's surprise that he was going to quit Afghanistan and go back to Finland for personal reasons. That means that I will be acting as the officer in command at PO Aybak for the remainder of the rotation. This was quite a surprise and leaves many open questions. But surprises are one thing that one should get used to in Afghanistan. In the evening a washed laundry, went to the sauna and straight to bed.

Still Life with the Huns

Nothing much happened today at Camp Pannonia, either. After the morning brief I spent some time in the TOC and watched as the Germans packed their things and left for home camp. Before they left, we performed a and "Diestgradabzeichen- und Wappenaustausch". Such beautiful words. We also traded MRE's (meal-ready-to-eat) and Norwegian combat rations for German Einmannspackungen, and i got more than I bargained for. Then went jogging for abou 25 minutes. In the afternoon I watched a movie, and was still amused by the fake Finnish name that the Germans told me: Hunde Anleinen.


A typical accommodation at the camp: two rows of containers with a covered pathway between them.


Minutes before the morning brief.

Mit dem Staubsauger sauber machen

Not much happened today. The operation, that is the reason for my being at PRT PEK started and went according to plan, so there was no reason for me to liase with anyone, really. Before lunch we went shopping in the contaner shops outside the camp, which by the way is called Camp Pannonia. I bought a cheap belt holster for my sidearm and an equally cheap laser pointer. Then I cleaned my accommodation, which hadn't been vacuumed for a long, long time. I borrowed the vacuum cleaner from some German soldiers after they were done using it, using only German. "Es gibt keine Bodendüse, aber es ist besser als nichts", he said, and I couldn't have said it better myself. Then I went looking for a floor mop and found one in the shower container. I mopped the floor of my room, and for a moment it lookes almost clean. I still had some energy left to go for a 20-minute run around the camp before lunch. The Hungarian military dogs went wild on every lap when I ran past the dog house.

In the afternoon I watched a movie, updated some operational data and went to bed - my GSM and satellite phones of course swithced on and ready for any eventualities. The Hungarian soldiers are well-behaving and polite, and I have been personally and professionally very well received. But, I must confess that I have never seen as many officers playing computer games and watching videos in any military headquarters. Ever.


A Hungarian force protection patrol heading out. And one of the military dogs taking a walk.


Pol-e Khumri.

PRT PEK

After the Friday brunch I took off with MOT B towards the city of Pol-e Khumri and the HQ of the local PRT there. I was ordered there to be the liason officer there for a few days. The PRT PEK is lead by Hungarians, and supporting nations are Germany, Croatia and Montenegro. I arrived in the afternoon and was introduced to the local G3 and TOC (tactical operations command), where I will be working. It was really interesting and informative to see how our closest neighbours, the Hungarians, work - or don't work, as it sometimes seems. I received a warm welcome and was accommodated in their newest barracks in a room of my own. There's a gym, a mess, a PX (postal exchange), container shops, a handball field, a separate party area(!) and food of Supreme quality. What more could an ISAF soldier want?


50% of my escort, the always charming MOT B.


My quarters at PRT PEK HQ. Not too bad, but not too clean.


It was Friday night, and the Hungarian soldiers put the party tent to good use.

Back in the Smog

The flight from Pirkkala to Mazar-e Sharif went surprisingly smoothly. There was only one hour's delay in Turkey and another in Kabul, so we arrived in time to make it to Aybak during daylight. Some business at the Finnish national support element in Camp Mira almost slowed us down, but we finally got going. Driving at night is not a problem, but if dusk falls during the trip it means that certain preparations and measures have to be made and taken. But that wasn't necessary: we reached Aybak just as the sun was setting. The final rays of the sun made the dense smog over the city glow pink and purple, as the inhabitants were trying to keep the dwellings warm by burning whatever is available. And again, the air smelt accordingly.

At the PO, the yard was again full of visitors' vehicles. I found my quarters as I had left them, with the clean laundry unfolded on the bed. There was again a layer of dust everywhere, so I would have started by cleaning up a bit had I only had the time. There was a lot of things going on and and a lot of papers to be read. The fact that one never sleeps too well on the plane did not help me to concentrate, so I soon realised that it would be better to go to bed early and leave the updateing of the situation until tomorrow. Of course, I would have to fold the laundry and wipe the dust from my quarters first. And, update the blog. Fortunately tomorrow is Friday, which means waking up a few moments later.

Third Leave

Well well, it's time for a short leave of absence away from theatre again. It feels really good to be back, even though I was only away for a month. The trip took about 10 hours altogether and went really smoothly to everyone's surprise. Perhaps it was because this time we travelled with the Norwegians instead of with the Danes. Anyway, when I stepped out of the plane in Tampere, the cold air was really fresh and I breathed deeply.


A lorry with a camel and a cow passing another with some goods and the loading crew ready. The traffic is flowing at a smooth 90 km/h.


The Norwegian hygiene containers at Camp Nidaros are exceptionally high-tech and really nice.


The same is not true about the transit tents, which accommodate almost a hundred persons each.


Turkey and the Black Sea - in daylight for a change.