20090930

Feedback

The PRT CO came by again today to do an AAR with the boys from MOT D. (Key: Provincial Reconstruction Team, Commanding Officer, After Action Review, Military Observer Team. Now you know what it's like to read any text that Nato produces - abbreviation after abbreviation). Anyway, while he was here he gave me some feedback on the performance of the PO during the incident, that I mentioned earlier. The feedback was good, and it felt good, because it was based on facts. All parties had been pleased with the way we had handled things and facilitated the operation. In the daily briefing, I forwarded the feedback to everyone and thanked them. Which reminds me: a few days ago, my Finnish collagues here gave me feedback on my leadership. They said that they liked the way in which I conducted the briefings, especially pointing out that now they finally could understand what was going on. They also thought that I was doing well in general.

Now feedback is the prerequisite for development. Positive feedback feels good, but as I said, the most important thing with feedback is that it's well founded. As it happens, I'm not at all certain that my leadership at the PO is at all as good as the recent feedback suggests. I don't feel at all sure of myself of on top of things at times. That has never stopped me from functioning or making decisions, though. After all, that's what I'm paid to do here. But make no mistake: I'm well aware of the risks and responsibilities of this mission. There is no room for complacency and always room for improvement. Aybak, Samangan, Afghanistan - it makes no difference. There are people out there who are trying to kill us - there are not very many of them, they are not very close, and they are not very effective - but it kind of puts things into perspective. We're all glad to have the boys in D back in one piece.

20090929

M/A

Today was M/A -day. As I've mentioned before, the abbreviation comes from Maintenance and Admistrative duties, which in this particular case include almost evething else than operational duties, such as physical exercise, sunbathing, internet surfing, movie watching, cleaning of weapons and laundry washing. Our Swedish MOT was still out after the TIC (Troops In Contact) incident, and we had nothing urgent to do, so I thought the PO crew could take it a little bit easier today. Looking back, yesterday was actually very hectic. I finished the reports on yesterday's meetings, and also had the IP translate a Taleban 'night letter' that the chief of NDS gave us yesterday. The letter was well formulated to serve its purpose.

K and C cleaned Lion and Bunny today. They also did a full inventory of the equipment, added and rearranged when needed and tidied up the interior in general. In case you were wondering, Lion and Bunny are the PO's vehicles, armoured Mercedes-Benz 280 Geländewagens. The cars are really put to the test here, and must be serviced regularly. We don't want them to break down during patrol. I also spent some time on the cross-trainer, which is just a little bit more fun than the treadmill.


View from the mill.

(P.S.: I uploaded pictures to some of the older blog entries, too. The internet connection has become quicker, but it's still painfully slow compared to home.)

20090928

Keeping busy

The DO (duty officer) woke me up at 0215 and told me what had happened. I told him to wake up O-P and M and meet me in the operations room. Many phonecalls and radio messages followed. Reinforcements arrived and were sent off. The incindent, that has by now been made public knowledge, was one of the very few that have taken place in PO Aybak's area of responsibility. We at the PO were not directly involved, so we went about our business as usual. After a second breakfast we drove out the OCCP meeting and about an hour later to the Security meeting at the Provincial Governor's office. After that meeting the chief of the provincial National Directorate of Security, Afghanistan's intelligence agency, invited us to a meeting the same afternoon.

The Americans came along, and afterwards they wanted some fuel. They can get fuel elsewhere, but they say that the Afghans complain about them stealing their fuel even if they pay good money for it. It must also be a much more relaxing experience to fill up at the safe house than out there at a local pump station. There were some representatives of some EU organisation or project or whatever at the PO, who wanted to interview me. I told them that I could spare 10 minutes and no more, which they were satisfied with. I think they just needed an excuse to use our toilet and showers. Some visitors admit it openly - it's quite understandable, as our's are probably the only western-style toilets and working showers between Pol-i Khumri and Mazar-e Sharif.

I spent the evening writing reports on the day's meetings and recovering from the early wake-up. The weekly "Suomi-rep", a paper to the Finnish authorities about how were are doing, had also to be written.

20090927

Communication Breakdown

It wonder if it's ever really possible for a westerner - such as myself - to be able to adequately communicate with an Afghan. Our interpreters are Afghans, so they are by definition not the solution to the dilemma. "What dilemma?", you might say. Well, I suppose it has to be experienced to be understood. The communication between Afghans ("them") and westerners ("us") very likely to fail because of a vast number of reasons. I won't even make an attempt at trying to explain what I mean, but I see examples of communication breakdown between us and them every day. I've yet to become frustrated, but I must say it was quite refreshing to talk with an American officer today. During our conversation, the phrase 'I know exactly what you mean' was heard more than a few times.

They say what they think we want to hear instead of pursuing the truth. They try to save face at any cost, and pointing out their mistakes even in the most polite, inquiring way is considered rude. They can be very polite and hospitable (or so it seems), but show no gratitude towards us. (A Swedish unit had seen in a man in a wheelchair begging and selling firewood by the roadside when passing by on several occasions. It was winter and very cold. They felt sorry for the man so they stopped and gave him a pair of warm winter gloves. Without any gesture of gratitude the man took the gloves, put them inside his jacket, streched out his open hand and said: "Radio!") I guess somewhere deep down they see us as barbarians and milk cows for money. We see them as animals and grown-up little children.

There is something familiar about the way the officials and authorities operate here. I spent some time thinking about what it was, but I just couldn't put my finger on it. Suddenly I realized what it was: Most of the guys in important positions are educated by the Soviets! The vast majority of them are completely unable to see outside their own little box of responsibility, and they are very reluctant to help each other out. Without a direct order from a direct authority, very little is likely to happen - they just stay where they are or go home. Fear is a key motivator for many civil cervants, just like in good old USS of R.


Another example of the peculiar signs - and the difficulty of communication (I like the Swedish translation best!)

There are fewer guests at the safe house now and more room in the yard. There was some trouble with the generators again and we have had no warm water for two days. That's not a problem with the temperature being what it is, but winter is on its way.

20090926

Clouds in the Sky

It was noticeably cooler today. In fact, the temperature was so low that I didn't sweat under my body armour during our morning patrol. I spent the rest of the day doing administrative duties: Meeting people visiting the PO, reading scores of reports, writing a few myself, and takin care of the local employees paperwork. Some reinforcements arrived today (Mobile Observation Team Bravo and Joint Tactical Air Control) to replace guys who are on leave from the PO, and they had to be recieved, briefed and tasked for tomorrows duties. I hadn't been so busy today if it hadn't been for yet some more last-minute changes, such as 9 people arriving instead of 3, 3 people staying until Sunday instead of today, teams choosing to do two-day patrols instead of one-day ones, new radios being installed on a different day than planned. The list goes on.

When I collected my bedlinen that I washed yesterday from the clothes line on the roof, the dust had coloured the sheets with a khaki camouflage pattern. Lesson learned - I should have used the tumble dryer in stead. It was cloudy the whole day today, so the guys of the visiting Mobile Medical Team were forced to change their daily routine of sunbathing for four hours. They actually looked happy to be doing something useful for a change, such as refilling broken sandbags and helping to clean the water tanks.


The picture shows the water drainage pipe from the washing machine. The dust gets everywhere.

20090925

Fired

Before brunch I went to the gym and worked out for almost an hour. It was already getting hot, when I streched a little on the sun deck. Then I started preparing for something that I've never done before: to terminate an employment contract. One of our guards didn't pass the latest security screening last week, and the report left me no options. So I had an interpreter call him in (he was not on duty today) and invited him, the guard commander and the interpreter to sit down at the table in the briefing room. I also had K stand by in case someone would become aggressive. You never know with the locals. I explained as well as I could the reasons for the termination of his employment, expressed my sympathy, and signed the form. Then he signed the form. I gave him a copy and paid him his last salary. He was upset, of course. He said he had six children and was the only provider of the family. He said that he had worked for ISAF for two years and that he had always behaved well. He urged me to talk to ISAF to get him another employment. There was very little that I could do but to wish him good luck.

There was quite a lot of coming and going at to PO today. At dinner we had over forty people to feed, and fourteen vehicles. And by that time the generator maintenance crew had already left. This meant that all the Americans had to sleep outside - we keep a policy that PRT troops have a right of way to the accommodation barracks. They say that they don't mind, and it's probably true. After all, at the PO they can feel safe, they don't have to cook for themselves or bring their own portable toilets, which I hear they do if the camp in any ANSF (Afghan Natinal Security Forces) camp. The PRT CO also paid us a visit, and we discussed in private for a while.

In the evening the wind rose. The dust was flying in the street outside the gate so, that the guards on duty had to wrap a shemagh to cover their faces. In the street lights (there are street lights only outside our gate, nowhere else), the whirling dust looked just like snow.

20090924

No A/C

I was awoken by the duty officer knocking on my door at 0556. There was no electricity in the building. It was already getting light outside. I told the DO to wake up K and T and to meet me at the generators. They were running, but there were error messages in all units. We shut down the machines and tried to restart them. Nothing happened. We still had communications, and the freezer holds its temperature for hours, so the situation was not critical, but serious nevertheless. It took us a little more than two hours to identify the problem, bypass it and get the generators going again. In doing this the generator experts from the Swedish national support element helped us over the phone (once they had woken up properly). They took the breakdown so seriously, that they decided to replace the whole generator unit number 2 at the earliest possible opportunity.

Then K and I decided to do a routine check to the guards house. We ispected their weapons and equipment, and afterwards the guards invited us to sit down and have a cup of tea. So we did, like you do down here, and talked about this and that. Then there was a phonecall over the secure telephone. After lunch I had a nap. Then I paid 20 dollars to the guard who had had the butt of his AK-47 repaired really quickly, just as we told him to. It took me longer than usual (or yesterday - today was my second briefing as OiC) to prepare for the briefing, which was held at 1700, as it's Thursday. Before the barbecue I prepared the SITREP (Situation Report) for PRT. After dinner I read through some more reports and prepared documents for tomorrow. After that I invited M and O-P to the Team Leader Meeting, in which we plan the next week in detail, and prepare an outline for the week after that. Then I had a shower and all that.

Tomorrow is Friday, which is usually M/A (Maintenance and Administrative duties) day. I certainly hope that there will be less to do tomorrow (I know there won't - but I can't say it here, because for security reasons I will not post any information concerning the future in this blog. All you read has already happened).


There are many peculiar signs around the compound. This is one of them.

20090923

A/C and U.S.

The air-conditioner repair guys from Supreme (the company that takes care of the majority of the maintenance and support task of ISAF, at least in our area) finally came and went. Now my quarters are nice and cool - and quiet, because the substitute indoor air-conditioner that we used was really noisy. Gone are also most of the Finns here - some on leave and some to get the cars serviced. That leaves me in charge. And as one would expect at such an occation, about an hour after the others had left, there was a message with a request for some operational plans. No trouble with spare time, then.

In the afternoon I briefly met two representatives of an NGO (Non-Governmental Organisation), who had left several proposals to the PRT for the funding of a printing press, a refridgerator and a digital camera, but whose propsals had repeatedly been rejected. I offered the gentlemen refreshing drinks, expressed my sympathy and wished them better fortune with future projects. Via the interpreter, M, of course.

My opportunity to go for a run on the treadmill was cut short by the arrival of four Humvees (HMMWV - High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle) with 14 soldiers of the U.S. Army. They come here every now and then and camp in the yard. At the moment we could accommondate them all in the house, but we won't, and they are happy with that. We offer them dinner, a guarded parking space, hygienic facilities and a basketball field, and they offer us light entertainment just by letting us watch them do their thing.


A refreshing afternoon snack. Please note that the beer is non-alcoholic!

20090922

Out with the Swedes

Before breakfast we had a group picture taken on the sundeck. This was the last opportunity for it, as from now on someone of the permanent crew of the Provincial Office will always be on leave. At 0930 the guys from PRT staff arrived and we started our backbrief. It was shorter than I expected, so I did get a chance to go out with the Swedes to the firing range after all. (That is what I had planned all along, but the staff wanted to have the backbrief when the CO is still here, instead of on Friday, as it was originally planned. Everything seems to change on very, very short notice around here. Perhaps it's just as well.)

The life firing excercise area that we use is only about 20 minutes away. The police must of course be notified and we must guard the area ourselves. Unfortunately, we spotted sheep and some shepherds only 1625 metres behind the target area (we checked the distance with a laser range-finder) so the Swedes' original plan to shoot with all weapons had to be altered (what was it that I just said?) They practised with some of their non-lethal and training ammunition instead, and did some drills without live ammunition. I stood guard, observed the training ground and took many pictures of the incredibly beautiful landscape.


The Swedes prepare the life-fire exercise


The interpreter came along in case we meet any locals


I stood guard and watched the area


Ring Road 5 could be seen in the distance

We took the long way back, driving through the city instead of on the main road. My phone rang: It was the staff letting me know that the air-conditoning repair guy would come some time tomorrow or the day after that. Probably. People were still dressed-up and looking happy, but there were less people out in the streets. When we arrived at the safe-house, I took some more pictures of the poor stray dogs sleeping outside our gate. They always sleep in the daytime, and start barking after dark. The guards must be feeding them.


The bigger dog, a male, is sometimes sleeping in the middle of the street


This one is much smaller. She looks a little bit like Villa!

Some children (boys, always boys) came up to us talking and laughing. One of them lifted up his shirt and pulled out a real-size, black toy pistol from his trousers. Another boy took out a silver-coloured pistol. I immeatedly sent one of the guards to fetch one of our IP's (interpreters), and had him explain to the kids that they should never play with weapons in front of soldiers. We might not know the difference.

The days are so busy that I find it hard to get some time to myself - to write this, to do some physical excersice and to rest. That is not likely to change in the near future as the CO goes on leave and I'll be in charge. On top it all, I'm DO (Duty Officer) for the first time today, which means even less sleep. Or, it just might change, just like everything else down here.

20090921

Parade

Monday was perhaps one of the hottest days here so far. On Sunday night it was amazingly hot outside long after the sun had set, so the temperature was high on Monday morning to begin with. Inside air-conditioned buildings and tents it was ok, but I really did not want to spend time outside. That is what the day had to offer, however. At 0900 there was a short rehearsal for the upcoming Change of Command parade. After that our PO's medic, M, gave me some more vaccinations, I think they were Twinrix II and Rabies II.

The parade, starting at 1100, was conducted according to normal Finnish procedures, except that the language was English, as there were troops and guests from many different nations. There was no marching, as the camp is too small, and no band, for obvious reasons. The music was delivered through loudspeakers. After the chaplain's speech and prayer and the change of command ceremony, the Finnish national anthem, "Our Land" started playing. No-one had told us that it was going to be played in the parade, so no-one stood at attention, and we all had our hats on. Another thing also happened just then, that caught everyone's attention. A few minutes earlier a soldier in the Swedish troops' column had fainted from the heat. It was a silent moment in the parade and everybody could hear the soldier hitting the ground. There were medics rushing to the scene. And just as the national anthem was playing, the poor guy was wheeled across the parade ground on a strecher by three medics, feet first, his head wrapped in white bandage! I almost burst out laughing - combined with the music, it was tragicomical to the point of being hilarious. (Btw., there were about a half dozen more Swedes who left the parade column to rest in the shade, when none of the Finns did. It must be the sauna.)

Yesterday I tried to get hold of the tailor to see if the insignia of rank that I ordered a week ago were ready. They weren't, but the man told me that I should come back tomorrow. I did, but the tailor's shop was closed for Eid al-Fithr. Somehow this did not surprise me in the least. Later, as we were stopping by in the German camp, I inquired at the local PX (Postal Exchange) if they made insignia, but was again disappointed. It seems that I will have to keep on walking around with shiny golden ranks of insignia with blue or green background if I want to wear my correct service rank, Lieutenant Senior Grade. The other option would be to disguise myself as a Captain and use proper, black insignia on khaki background.

In the afternoon, we drove back to Aybak. Our car almost overheated in the ascent, but we arrived safe, if somwhat late. The clearing and disinfection of the cellar (we had a mouse problem in the cellar) was almost done. I spent the night preparing for the next day's backbriefing.

20090920

Back in Camp Northern Lights

I woke up even earlier than yesterday and I still felt a bit sick. It was too early for breakfast and I couldn't have eaten a bite even if it hadn't been. I just had a Fanta and climbed into the car. The sun was barely over the horizon as we left for Mazar-e-Sharif and Camp Northern Lights. The point of this trip was to attend some additional training and to join the Change of Command Parade of the Finnish Contingent. At the same time, there was a bunch of things to take care of at HQ. Revising the PO cash to the Paymaster, getting vaccinations, getting hard copies of the local employees employment contracts, making arrangements for the upcoming backbrief with operations - not to mention all the things to get from IKEA (that's what the Swedish main supply storage is called), such as washing powder, door handles, duct tape, drill bits, etc.


It's difficult to take pictures that do the landscape justice...


...especially through dirty armoured glass with a pocket camera from a moving car!

The briefings were boring, as they were mostly repetition of what we'd been taught earlier. By lunchtime I was feeling slightly better, however, and managed to eat some soup. The day was more than reasonably hot. Settling matters with the Swedish National Support Element and the Paymaster took almost two hours, but I finally walked away with a reciept for 15000 USD and almost 13000 $ in cash in my backpack. It's the Swedish contingent that handles most of the financial matters in PRT MeS. At the Suomi-house, there were feedback forms for the rotation training in the area of operations. My feedback was mostly negative, and I think that my comrades' feedback will be on the same note. There were also application forms for the next rotation, which must be handed in 15. October at the latest. When I inquired about whether it was better to apply to the next rotation and then cancel, or not to apply, I was told that it's definitely better to apply. Service in Afghanistan can be terminated quite quickly if necessary. Nobody needs to be here against their will.

20090919

Patrols and Preparations

Out of bed, breakfast, put on combat gear and go out on patrol. I kept watch in the yard of the local police headquarter together with C, M, and J, while K and the CO joined a meeting. It wasn't too hot in the early hours and in the centre of Aybak city there is alway plenty of interesting things to see. A puppy dog, not more than 3 to 6 months old walked around in the yard.


"Hello, I'm an Afghan stray mongrel puppy. Who are you?"

On the way back to the safe house we drove through the butchers' street again. It's always a good idea to have breakfast before driving through butchers' street in Aybak. Before lunch we made a second trip to city, this time to the provincial headquarters of the National Department of Security. This time I didn't stand guard but followed the CO and the interpreter to the meeting. I listened and learned and was introduced to some of the local officials of the NDS.

In the afternoon I continued the lengthty project of sorting the files of our Provincial Office, both in the computer and memory sticks as well as in the cupboard. That project is far from finished and of course it never will be, but it needs to be done. I couldn't find the papers or files that I needed during the first week. Once the paperwork is sorted I will perhaps be better able to concentrate on more important matters, such as acting as Officer in Command when the Commanding Officer is away (which he will be quite soon).

The most important thing to do, however, was getting the 15000 USD cash register of the PO in order. After thoroughly revising every reciept, advance, listing and cashbox - twice - I finally got the sum under the line to show 14984 dollars. It seems that I'll have to conjure up 16 dollars somewhere - sixteen dollars that my predecessor has done away with.

Dinner was again very special: Finnish river crayfish and duck breast in orange sauce with rösti potatoes. The occasion is the departure of the CO of Military Observer Team Echo. He was celebrated with speeces and presented an old british bayonette from his teammates. It was most probably not due to the dinner, but in the evening I felt ill and had a hard time falling asleep.


Farewell dinner for major V. (We don't eat like this every day.)

20090918

Friday

Friday is a day off for the local population. I've no idea why Sunday has turned to Friday here, but it must have something to do with the religion, because almost everything does. But even the almighty Wikipedia failed to help me unveil the mystery of lazy Friday. Anyway, as there is hardly any point going out on patrol on a holiday, we usually use our Fridays for - not for worshipping the Norse God Freija, as Friday was originally intended - but for "maintenance and administrative duties", which include sports, recreation and rest as well. Instead of breakfast we have brunch at 1030, so we can sleep a bit longer. I, however, managed to spoil this opportunity to rest by getting up at 0615 to run on the treadmill for 25 minutes, like I promised myself yesterday.

But I got no chance to get lazy later in the day, either. There was enough paperwork of different kinds to last several hours, a short drill about the defence of our safe house, and in the evening we had a meeting to plan a couple of weeks ahead. People will be off to leave in the near future, and matters must be well prepared to flow smoothly for those of us who will have our leave a bit later, like me. At 2100 I joined the majority of the PO crew in the welfare room to watch an episode of the 80'ies classic "Miami Vice". It has, or so I gather, become something of a tradition to watch Miami Vice at 9 pm every night the guys of Echo are at home base. Well, I suppose there are more useless things to do than to watch Miami Vice, but I can't think of too many.

20090917

Afghanistan, Week One

Has it been a week already? Time flies when your're having fun - yes, I must admit that I quite like the circumstances into which I have chosen to be put in so far. Today, the CO of the Finnish contingent (SKJA) and his successor paid us a visit. They were pleased with what they saw and heard, for which we can direct our gratitude only towards our predecessors. I also had time to unload the food delivery lorries (a task in which ALL available personnel at the PO take part), to do some more administrative duties, to clean the magazines to my weapons, to repair my equipment vest's radio pocket and my desert goggles, which were both broken and to take some pictures.


The food delivery lorry is decorated in a typical way with lots of everything.

Things still to do today is exercise - even a little bit - because I feel like haven't done practically anything physical since whenever. Running on the treadmill in the gym sounds like a plan, once the barbecue dinner has settled. Did I mention that there is a tradition of having a barbecue on the roof on thursdays? I mustn't have, because it's my first thursday here. Beef and lamb, salads, fried onion rings and jalapeños with cheese, grilled peppers and garlic butter. Oh boy.


Barbecue on the sundeck.


Everyone brings up their own chilled beverages of choice from the welfare kitchen's fridge.

Last night we had a few drops of rain, and the air seems cooler. My room is still too hot, but in the evening we managed to haul in an indoor airconditioner and to connect it with a hose to a hole in the wall, a feat which might help me sleep better tonight than the previous one. Either that, or I'm getting used to the heat and dust.

P.S.: This blog is now being scrutinised by the Finnish contingent's Information and Public Relations Officer, captain O. Should I have violated any information security regulations by publishing the information that I have, this blog might promptly vanish. Make your copies now! =;-p

International Peace Day

My second day in Aybak turned out to be a busy one (so busy, that I'm actually writing this on the day after yesterday, i.e. today, although one isn't able to tell that from the blog entry date and time markings, because those can be set and even altered afterwards, so I set to date and time for this entry to be what they would have been, had I had the energy to write this entry yesterday. The blogosphere works in mysterious ways).

Representatives of ISAF were invited to join the International Peace Day celebrations in the city of Aybak. The day is supposed to celebrated on the 21. September, but as that day coincides with the ending of Ramadan and the Eid-festival, which is a three day national holiday, the Peace day reception was here on the 16. So, we launched a patrol to the centre of Aybak and parked our cars in the yard of a local high school, in the main hall of which was the venue. The CO (commanding officer) of PO Aybak, the representatives of EUPOL (The police of the European Union, a Polish fellow named S) and G9 (the CIMIC (civil - military co-operation) office of PRT MeS (Provincial Reconstrution Team Mazar-e-Sharif), a Finnish guy named J), and myself entered the hall. We got seats in the front of the hall, just behind the guest of honour, who were government officials of provincial level. What followed was an hour and a half of monotonous speeches, followed by more speeches. Fortunately I had the interpreter sitting beside me, and his telling me the main points of the speeches prevented me from falling asleep. Poems were read aloud by schoolchildren and a song was performed by a girls' choir. The event was incidentally broadcast today on local television, and I could be seen in a couple of shots, so now I can say that I've been on TV in Afghanistan. How about that.

In the schoolyard there were a couple of elderly, bearded men walking around with long canes in their hand. When we asked what they were doing, we were told that they're keeping the discipline: making sure that the kids behave themselves, make their way swiftly to class etc. Disciplinarians must be like a very practical thing to have here - and why not in Finland as well. It would give the pensioners some exercise.

Back at the PO I spent the afternoon learning about one of my main administrative duties: managing the cash flow. The local employees were in need of advance on their pay because of the coming holidays, so most signed out up to half of next month's pay in advance. I also found the time to clean my weapons, which I had not had time for since range day. Then it was time for the daily briefing, after which the CO, S and me to hurried across the street to join the guard's dinner.

It was the CO's idea to invite all the local employees of the PO to dinner. His superiors agreed with the idea, and with the help of a small allowance we hired a cook to prepare it. There is a garden across the street, next to a mosque, and the gardener let us use his kitchen to prepare the meal. We brought chilled soft drinks and bottled water. We were joined by the gardener and the mullah from the mosque, although he had to run off to administer the prayers once in a while (this close to Eid the praying continues all night). We sat and ate for more than two hours. The food tasted excellent, and what's more important, I didn't get "yalla". Yet. (The interpreter recommended that we skip the yoghurt sauce, which probably was good advice.)


Plenty of everything (my portion was actually big enough for three)


The locals drank all the soft drinks, although there were 3 can per person!

(Btw., the internet connection of the PO has used up more than 90% of it's monthly quota of megabytes. The reason for this is that one of the quys accidentally downloaded something very, very big. Consequently I might be forced to stay off-line until the 26.9., when we get a new quota. But dinny fash {Scottish: don't worry}, I'll keep on writing off-line, and upload everything in one go when it's possible.)

20090915

Home Away From Home

I've arrived at my place of service for some time into the future: The Provincial Office of Aybak, or PO AYB for short. It is situated in the centre of the provincial capital of Samangan province, Aybak, a city of approximately 35000 people. The city lies over 900 metres over sea level and is surrounded by mountains with peaks between 2400 and 3500 metres high. This makes the area on average a little cooler and less arid than the surroundings of Mazar-e-Sharif: there are grasslands, fields and even small parks with trees in and around Aybak. A river flows through the city centre (at least according to the map. The maps around here are very far from the standard that we're used to in Finland - they are kind of a rough estimate of how the terrain, buildings and roads might have looked a while ago, before the last war, earthquake or flood.)

After our small convoy arrived, we unpacked our personal equipment and prepared our quarters. I wiped and vacuumed my lodging (or "körmy" as we call it) clean, as if was in typical "I'm-leaving-so-I-couldn't-care-less" state after the last occupant. I have about 4 * 2 metres of private, secluded space, and there's a bed, a small desk with a desk lamp, some shelves and a notice board. That is actually quite a lot and definitely enough for my demands. In the evening there was a briefing, some training, some equipment maintenance and some bad news: the air conditioner in my part of the building is not working. I tried everything: I cleaned the filters, turned off the power and tried different settings. I even investigated the outside unit with a Swedish repairman, who came here to fix a generator, for almost an hour, but to no avail. It must be at least 30 degrees in my room even at this late hour (it is now 2245 local time). It's cooler outside, which says a lot.

Anyway, my first impression of my new home away from home is excellent. Even the food is great - in Camp Northern Lights if was suberb, but the experience of one lunch and one dinner from the PO kitchen is very promising.

20090914

S.W.E.A.T.*

Yesterday, after having written the last two blog entries, I let myself be persuaded to go for a run. I'm not that fond of running, but the commanding officer here urged everyone to do some physical exercise each and every day. So be it. There is a running track in the camp: it follows the inner boundaries and is approximately 1011 metres long. I ran four laps and that's nothing to brag about, as my companion continued to run eight. What made me stop early was not the distance, but the temperature: 37 degrees in the shade. My heart rate was also much higher than usual, so I decided to go to the gym instead to do some push-ups and crunches and strech properly. The gym is in a tent which is not air-conditioned, so I ended up stretching in puddle of my own sweat.

Running in the camp, by the way, is forbidden in a tank top or other sleeveless shirt or without a shirt. This is out of respect towards the local employees (they have a different attitude towards nudity). T-shirt and shorts is ok, though.

Today was another hot day here in Mazar-e-Sharif. After 3 briefings on communications systems in the morning we had an attempt at patrolling in the desert outside town. The land is very dry, but last winter the floods from the mountains had pulled down two bridges. The outskirts of the city are extremely poor, but everyone had a friendly attitude towards us, especially the many children. Sometimes it's hard to belive your eyes. We witnessed a small motorcycle with no less than six passengers, including two toddlers, riding across the desert.

Upon returning to camp Northern Lights, I returned to my quarters, took off my equipment vest and body armour, and pulled off my shirt. It was soaking wet, again.

*) Shirt Wet Expectedly And Totally

20090913

Free Hints

List of Useful Things to Bring Along When Coming to Serve in Afganistan:
- zip ties (different lengths, widths and colours) enough to share with your comrades
- a light bag that folds away to keyring size, e.g. a parachute silk bag
- a small flashlight or a head lamp with adjustable brightness
- a permanent marker to write your initials or blood type on everything that is yours
- ear plugs and smart little boxes to keep them in
- insignia of rank for naval officers
- Feelmax footwear

(... to be continued!)

Range day

Today we went to the shooting range near the American Camp Mike Spann to zero in our weapons. I don't usually especially enjoy time spent at the shooting range, but today was fun simply because it was so different. The shooting and adjusting the sights was the same routine process as back home, but in Finland you never get to do it in nearly 40 degrees temperature with mountains in the background, dust flying in the air, eagles (or birds of prey of some kind) soaring overhead and huge locusts jumping on your rucksack. Nothing very exiting but definitely different.


Making our way to the shooting range.


The length of my shadow suggests that it's still morning.


There was more of these guys at the range than empty cartridge shells.

20090912

Briefing Day

Saturday consisted of one briefing upon another, at least 12 in total. I consider myself now well briefed, at least for the moment. In the few hours that we were not being briefed, I managed to do many of those small but important things that, unless they are taken care of, continue to buzz around in the back of your head ad infinitum. Filling up the weapons' oil bottle, collecting free postcards and stamps from the staff, checking out the library, putting plastic foil on important documents, bringing your fatigue jackets to the tailor to be mended and purchasing dental floss are just such things. And of course, calling A on the phone. She has a hen party.

I met some of the Swedish soldiers here today and yesterday, too. There is indeed a distinct difference in the way we operate (notice that I did not say one way of operating was better than the other). But we are in this operation together - brothers, sisters and neighbours in arms. There is one thing that the Swedes have that I'm jealous of (notice that I did not say it's the only thing I'm jealous of): they are allowed to grow a beard. That's something that I would definitely do if our regulations would allow it. I hear it is one and perhaps the only method in which a westerner might improve his personal prestige with the locals.


Peace doves (?) on barbed wire.

It was hotter today than yesterday, and I hear tomorrow is going to be even hotter.

20090911

Camp Northern Lights

Early in the morning, right after a hearty breakfast in German style, we joined a convoy to the Swedish - Finnish camp Northern Lights. Every time we leave camp there are certain operational procedures and precautions to follow. As I was travelling inside an armoured personnel carrier I didn't get to see much of the city Mazar-e-Sharif, and tried to take a nap instead. But it was too hot inside - the older APC models lack air-conditioning.

In CNL, we were introduced to the camp and the general situation in the area, as well as given instructions for the coming days. Accommodation is again in an air-conditioned tent much like last night, only less roomy. In the evening there was a barbecue, but I didn't stay long. Instead I spent the best part of two hours packing my equipment vest with the issued combat kit. Not much fun but it needs to be done properly. There's still much to, though, before all the equipment is ok.


Camp Northern Lights.

The proportions of the ISAF operation begin to dawn on me. There are now nearly one hundred thousand foreign troops here. Every soldier has to be fed, accomodated, transported, cared for medically, protected, entertained, communicated with... It is difficult to imagine. It has to be seen to be believed. This is a very, very big operation.

The heat made me feel ill this afternoon, but the symptoms passed after dinner. I still feel tired and hope to sleep well in the tent. It's cool in there, but the AC is noisy, and somewhere they are burning coal with the result that the stinking smoke spreads everywhere.


Tent life.

20090910

Afghanistan, Day One

My final days at home were very happy. We spent a lot of time together, A, R and V, and did things that we all enjoy. It was not easy to leave all that behind yesterday. Even so, I felt strangely clear and serene at heart when it was finally time to leave for Afghanistan. The extra five weeks that I got to spend at home due to the elections only felt like postponing the inevitable. To get going was a relief – a feeling that most of my comrades shared at the airport. Furthermore, many of us felt that in the weeks after the rotation training much of the instruction had been forgotten, or at least a ‘feel’ for the operation had been lost. We were glad to see each other again – and to get going.

Yesterday A gave me a lift to the railway station in the afternoon, before going to work. From there, I took the train to Tampere, where I met up with J. We drove over to his home studio to record the vocals to a cover version of Iron Maiden’s “The Unbeliever”, but I don’t think it turned out so good. It’s never a good idea to do something creative like that with a tight deadline. My deadline was 2100 hours, when I was supposed to turn up at the airport, which I did, as J gave me a lift there.

The plane took off at about 2230 local time. I was surprised to find that Amsterdam Airlines was an airline of decent quality, although the seats were far from spacious. The meals were very good and the cabin crew friendly. We landed to refuel in northern Turkey in a town the name of which I had never heard before. The airport there looked what the airport in the movie “Midnight Express” would have looked like had it had an airport in it. All the passengers were crammed into a hall with stale air, an ambient temperature of at least 28 degrees and only one toilet. A can of coke cost 3,50 euros.

Some Danish K9s taking it easy at the Turkish airport.

Next stop was Kabul. The sun rose early, about an hour before we landed. From above, the city looked like a khaki jigsaw puzzle surrounded by mountains. As we descended to the airfield I could see how the air was filled with dust. Still the sunshine was very bright. Some passengers disembarked in Kabul and others came aboard. As soon as their baggage had been unloaded and loaded we continued towards Mazar-e-Sharif.

Looking down on Kabul.

I got a window seat in the now half-full plane and could enjoy the incredibly beautiful views of snow-peaked mountains and dry river-beds. After only 40 minutes flight we landed in MeS. Next we had a plentiful lunch at the German camp’s mess hall. Without wasting any daylight hours, we started gathering all the remaining equipment from the Finnish National Support Element’s warehouses. The Finnish camp lies inside the Norwegian camp Nidaros, which in turn is located inside the German camp. Sounds complicated, but it's not. The weather was hot and the sun roasting, although the Finns at the site told us that it was a cool day, only 30 or so degrees. In August they had had daytime temperatures over 40 for weeks!

After dinner I had a shower and withdrew to my bunk in the guest’s tent, which sound worse than it is: it’s a tent with a concrete floor, a refrigerator and air-conditioning. The night outside is very dark which makes the stars shine very bright, and the air is a little cooler. Surprisingly no-one of the about sixty soldiers sleeping in the tent is snoring. The only sounds come the German’s karaoke night, just barely louder than the humming of the air-conditioner, but loud enough for me to recognise the song: “Stummer Schrei nach Liebe” (oo-oo-oo, Arschloch!). There’s a transport plane taking off. I’ll have to use earplugs. Good night.

"Gear up and fall in!"